It's just a Short Walk: Almost Home

Cruising friends on Big Run caught up with us just north of Charleston and we have been cruising on and off with them as we both head back to the Chesapeake Bay. We made side trips to Southport (to see friends Maggie and Jim from PA who relocated) and then to Beaufort (one of our favorite towns). We cruised the Waccamaw River with Big Run and agree it is one of the most beautiful rivers on entire ICW. Just south of Alligator River in S. Carolina, Joe spotted an alligator, a first for all of us while cruising. Big Run was behind us and was able to get the great pictures below.

We also made a stop in Elizabeth City to see Jeanne who now lives in the Outer Banks. Elizabeth City calls itself the Harbor of Hospitality, has free docks and throws a wine, beer and cheese party whenever 5 or more boats come in. Friday night when we were there was the first party of the season. The visitor's center does a great job and although you can see clear signs of the town struggling to stay economically viable, you can also see and feel the efforts of good-hearted people who are proud to live there. A tradition of giving roses to the women at the happy hour was started by one resident in the 1980s and even though he has died, the rose tradition continues. Several of the retired men in town also hang around the docks and help you tie up and cast off and fill the time in between with lots of stories. A very charming town.

Elizabeth City is the southern most point in the Dismal Swamp route back to Norfolk. Every time I write the words Dismal Swamp I think it sounds creepy and wonder why we go there. However, it easily competes with the Waccamaw River in S. Carolina for raw beauty. The winding Pasquotank River starts the route north into the swamp and you traverse through 2 locks before you get to Norfolk. We made it through the first lock yesterday and are staying at the Visitor's Center tonight to wait out the 2-3 inches of rain expected today. We try not to travel in crummy weather and this is as good a place to hide as any. Highway Route 17 runs parallel to the ICW and at the back of one of the rest stops along the highway there is a dock that holds 3-4 boats. Other boats raft to the first 3-4 boats and we have been here with as many as 12 boats tied together. Last night there were 8 of us and only one left this morning. With more coming through the locks today, it should make for an interesting happy hour. The first lock requires the water to rise about 7-8 feet. Going north you enter the lock at the lower end, the lock tender closes the doors behind you and then slowly (theoretically) he lets the water in the lock to raise you up. The boat rises along the seawall as the water comes in and then the tender opens the doors and you motor out. Obviously, this is a centuries old engineering feat but it still amazes me every time. This time, he let the water in faster than we've ever seen and the boat bounced around a bit with the bubbling water trying to move the bow off the wall. We adjust the lines holding us to the wall as the water bubbles us up and trying to hold the line and snap pictures is interesting at times. We have one more lock to go through tomorrow and then we'll make it to Portsmouth, VA. After that, we hope to do one last overnight motor trip up the Bay to Rock Hall, getting there by the end of the week. Almost home!!!!