So the fact that the Abaco islands/cays are closer makes all our weather decisions easier. It is also interesting to note that the Moorings and Sunsail have charter boats in the Abacos but we have not seen any charter services in the Exumas. The weather uncertainty and distances between destinations in the Exumas just don’t fit into the normal one week charter itinerary. So currently, we are enjoying the Abaco islands and trying to see as much as possible before we move further south. The Abacos are often compared to southern Florida because it is only a day trip for the fast fishing/power boats and probably because there are so many more marinas and restaurants than the Exumas. Personally, we find the comparison a bit of a stretch. Although the marinas here are very nice they are just soooo much more casual than in the US. Sometimes they answer the radio, sometimes not. Sometimes the restaurants are open, sometimes not. Many marinas have showers but the facilities are rarely on the same level as the US. Only a few of the marinas have fuel. However, the casual atmosphere is definitely part of the charm and the attraction for most cruisers. In fact, most of us go to marinas only to do wash or if the weather forecast is particularly dire. Although many of the marinas have $1/foot rates at this time of year, most cruising budgets are based on anchoring out the vast majority of the time. $40/feet per night adds up quickly. We went into a marina in Spanish Cay for a night to check into customs but probably won’t dock again until we are very south in the Exumas; probably in February. In some of the tighter harbors here and in the harbors with poor holding ground (grass growing in sand), there are moorings which so far have ranged from $10/night (Green Turtle Cay) to $20/night (Great Guana Cay). However, there is nothing like the feeling of swinging on your own hook with only a few other boats in sight.
We had a true cold snap and a huge front blow through while we were on a mooring in Black Sound at Green Turtle Cay. The wind in the very protected harbor (considered a hurricane hole) blew 25 knots steady with gusts to 36. Cold air came in with the storm dropping daytime and nighttime temperatures into the 50s. Again, I know you are groaning and wondering why I even mention a mild 50 degrees. However, all our winter clothes were packed away before we left Florida. It is amazing how many layers of summer clothes you need to wear to stay warm. And think (but don’t think too long- the image isn’t pretty) about showering in 50 degree temps. We actually stoked up the propane heater! Brrrrrr….. but luckily it only took a few days for temps to return to the normal 75 degrees. The Bahamians actually consider January to be the true winter here and during those 50 degree days were seen sporting down vests and winter jackets. God only knows what they think of us in our summer clothes!
After leaving Green Turtle Cay, we spent several days on Great Guana Cay which has a beautiful beach and two of our favorite beach bars. Nippers is the number one contender (sorry Oceana we are now siding with Tootsie on this one!) and sits on a bluff just above the Atlantic Ocean. The bar has 2 pools which were quite nippy after the 50 degree temps. We also love Pirate’s Cove which is a small bar overlooking the harbor. Pirate’s Cove is run by Jerry and his wife Chorenna. Jerry is a 30 year retired veteran of the Air Force and a delightful proprietor. Both bars do an awesome pig roast on Sundays. And of course all the bars have a signature rum drink (go figure) and they range from the frozen Nipper (don’t go there!) to Jerry’s Sunrise to the Guana Grabber. Maybe it is a bit like Florida after all. Jill and Parker on Tootsie hailed us just as we were about to leave Guana Cay and didn’t have to twist our arms long to spend another night enjoying this cay.
We have seen more birds here than in the Exumas including Bahamian parrots (no pictures yet-those buggers are fast!), Kestrels, Grassquits, Mockingbirds, Ruddy Turnstones, Frigate birds and White Rumped Sandpipers. In the Exumas, the birds were rare until February when they began to migrate back north.
Unfortunately, there are still signs of the hurricane in most places. Many docks are wrecked but the residents do a great job of salvaging all the wood and are slowly rebuilding. It looks like the residences fared well here. We’ve seen only a few roofs with damage and one or two totally wrecked homes. The islands slightly east of the Exumas (Cat, Rum, San Salvador) took the direct hit. We missed those islands last year but hope to get there in early February. So now we are in Marsh Harbor (the largest town/settlement in the Abacos) on the Island of Great Abaco to hide from some weather, refuel the boat and to do a few other chores. There is a great cruiser’s net here in the morning outlining all there is to do and helping boaters connect with friends and/or needed assistance. The boating community is one of the best parts of this life.
PS: We have lots of great pictures but as of today, the Internet connection wouldn't support uploading the pictures. We will try again at the next stop
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