What's not to love about the Abacos?

Last year our cruising focused on the central to southern Bahamas, specifically the Exuma Cays.   We made our way to Miami, crossed to Bimini and headed directly to the Exumas.   We came north through the Abacos but spent less than 2 weeks here.   This year we decided to do the opposite, entering the most northern Bahamas and taking our time working south slowly through the Abacos to the Exumas.   We just completed our second week in the Abacos and can see why some people get here and go no further.   The islands/cays are a bit closer here making for easy days and low stress cruising.   I know some of you are moaning right now and thinking “just how stressful can cruising be?” but I can’t emphasize enough the effects and uncertainty of the weather.   Trust me when I say being anchored in 30 knot winds as the fronts blow down from the US is a tiny bit stressful.   We get up 6 days a week for weather forecasts at 6:15 am (no forecasts on Sunday).   The weather forecast is specific for each area of the Bahamas and for Gulf Stream crossings and I never thought I would care so much about highs, lows, troughs, ridges, secondary fronts, blah, blah, blah.  

So the fact that the Abaco islands/cays are closer makes all our weather decisions easier.    It is also interesting to note that the Moorings and Sunsail have charter boats in the Abacos but we have not seen any charter services in the Exumas.   The weather uncertainty and distances between destinations in the Exumas just don’t fit into the normal one week charter itinerary.    So currently, we are enjoying the Abaco islands and trying to see as much as possible before we move further south.   The Abacos are often compared to southern Florida because it is only a day trip for the fast fishing/power boats and probably because there are so many more marinas and restaurants than the Exumas.   Personally, we find the comparison a bit of a stretch.   Although the marinas here are very nice they are just soooo much more casual than in the US.   Sometimes they answer the radio, sometimes not.   Sometimes the restaurants are open, sometimes not.  Many marinas have showers but the facilities are rarely on the same level as the US.   Only a few of the marinas have fuel.  However, the casual atmosphere is definitely part of the charm and the attraction for most cruisers.   In fact, most of us go to marinas only to do wash or if the weather forecast is particularly dire.  Although many of the marinas have $1/foot rates at this time of year, most cruising budgets are based on anchoring out the vast majority of the time.   $40/feet per night adds up quickly.   We went into a marina in Spanish Cay for a night to check into customs but probably won’t dock again until we are very south in the Exumas; probably in February.   In some of the tighter harbors here and in the harbors with poor holding ground (grass growing in sand), there are moorings which so far have ranged from $10/night (Green Turtle Cay) to $20/night (Great Guana Cay).      However, there is nothing like the feeling of swinging on your own hook with only a few other boats in sight.  

We had a true cold snap and a huge front blow through while we were on a mooring in Black Sound at Green Turtle Cay.    The wind in the very protected harbor (considered a hurricane hole) blew 25 knots steady with gusts to 36.    Cold air came in with the storm dropping daytime and nighttime temperatures into the 50s.   Again, I know you are groaning and wondering why I even mention a mild 50 degrees.    However, all our winter clothes were packed away before we left Florida.   It is amazing how many layers of summer clothes you need to wear to stay warm.   And think (but don’t think too long- the image isn’t pretty) about showering in 50 degree temps.    We actually stoked up the propane heater!   Brrrrrr….. but luckily it only took a few days for temps to return to the normal 75 degrees.   The Bahamians actually consider January to be the true winter here and during those 50 degree days were seen sporting down vests and winter jackets.  God only knows what they think of us in our summer clothes!

After leaving Green Turtle Cay, we spent several days on Great Guana Cay which has a beautiful beach and two of our favorite beach bars.   Nippers is the number one contender (sorry Oceana we are now siding with Tootsie on this one!) and sits on a bluff just above the Atlantic Ocean.   The bar has 2 pools which were quite nippy after the 50 degree temps.    We also love Pirate’s Cove which is a small bar overlooking the harbor.   Pirate’s Cove is run by Jerry and his wife Chorenna.   Jerry is a 30 year retired veteran of the Air Force and a delightful proprietor.  Both bars do an awesome pig roast on Sundays.   And of course all the bars have a signature rum drink (go figure) and they range from the frozen Nipper (don’t go there!) to Jerry’s Sunrise to the Guana Grabber.    Maybe it is a bit like Florida after all.   Jill and Parker on Tootsie hailed us just as we were about to leave Guana Cay and didn’t have to twist our arms long to spend another night enjoying this cay. 

We have seen more birds here than in the Exumas including Bahamian parrots (no pictures yet-those buggers are fast!), Kestrels, Grassquits, Mockingbirds, Ruddy Turnstones, Frigate birds and White Rumped Sandpipers.   In the Exumas, the birds were rare until February when they began to migrate back north.  

Unfortunately, there are still signs of the hurricane in most places.   Many docks are wrecked but the residents do a great job of salvaging all the wood and are slowly rebuilding.   It looks like the residences fared well here.   We’ve seen only a few roofs with damage and one or two totally wrecked homes.  The islands slightly east of the Exumas (Cat, Rum, San Salvador) took the direct hit.   We missed those islands last year but hope to get there in early February. 

So now we are in Marsh Harbor (the largest town/settlement in the Abacos) on the Island of Great Abaco to hide from some weather, refuel the boat and to do a few other chores.   There is a great cruiser’s net here in the morning outlining all there is to do and helping boaters connect with friends and/or needed assistance.    The boating community is one of the best parts of this life.

PS:  We have lots of great pictures but as of today, the Internet connection wouldn't support uploading the pictures.   We will try again at the next stop

Finally in the Bahamas!

We spent exactly 4 weeks in Vero Beach which wasn't in the plan.  Oh wait, we don't really have a firm plan.  Maybe that is the problem!   We left the Fort Pierce inlet (2 hours south of Vero Beach) on Thursday at 4:30 pm.   We traveled all night, crossing the Gulf Stream (deep water- we saw 2400 feet depths on the chart) getting to the Bahama Banks (shallow blue water!) around daylight.  The crossing was a little rolly but uneventful (meaning nothing broke!).  Our first stop was an uninhabited Cay (pronounced Key), named Great Sale Cay.   We didn't go ashore but rested there for the night.   Technically you are supposed to clear customs within 24 hours of entering Bahamian waters so on Friday we lifted the anchor early in the morning and headed for Spanish Cay where we could clear customs.    We were concerned about checking in on New Year's Eve because we knew the Custom's official would be anxious to go home.  However, we arrived at 2:30 pm along with one other boat and there was no problem. 

Last year when we cleared customs we only received a permit to stay in the Bahamas for 30 days.   That meant we had to check into customs AGAIN at the end of the first 30 days and beg for more time.   Actually, they are happy to give you more time and the permits vary from 30 days to 6 months.   It is totally at the discretion of the immigration officer that checks you in.   The trouble with a 30 day permit is that you can not renew (e.g. ask for more time) until less than a week before the 30 days expires and you can't be late to renew.   No big deal except only a few islands have immigration offices so you need to make sure the wind and weather get you to the next island before your ticket is up!   A bit of a hassle so Joe had been practicing his groveling technique (well honed during the last 24 years of marriage) so we could get a nice long permit on the first try this time.   The practice must of worked because we received a permit for 120 days which is all we need!

We will probably move on tomorrow and find a good anchoring spot for a big front which is expected to blow in next week.   Weather is critical down here and where we go next will be totally dictated by it. 

There is a great Internet connection here in the marina but we won't be in marinas much while we are here.  The only way this lifestyle is affordable is to spend the vast majority of of time in the Bahamas on the anchor.  So I'm not sure how often I will have good Internet connections to update the blog.   There appears to have been some hurricane damage here on Spanish Cay (see dock picture below) and there are reports of damage on other islands so the connections may be variable.   However, since we get our mail via the Internet, we will eventually find a hotspot and file updates.

It's great to finally be in the land of the gorgeous blue water.   Can't help but smile when you see the color.   Arriving here we are reminded just how lucky we are to be doing this again. 

Happy New Years to all!

View as we leave the Fort Pierce Inlet

Welcome to the gorgeous blue waters of the Bahamas!

Sunrise at Great Sale Cay

Cialis chairs at Spanish Cay Resort

Hurricaine damage at Spanish Cay

Short Walk at the dock at Spanish Cay

Still in Vero

Apparently Vero Beach is really made of velcro because as of December 20, we are STILL here.   We were planning to leave with Tootsie, headed to the Abacos on December 16th.   Joe was doing some pre-departure engine checks on Thursday the 15th and long story short, discovered a crack in the thermostat housing which was leaking coolant.   Since we knew we would be motoring or motor-sailing across the Gulf Stream, it is very important to have a properly cooled engine.   Not to mention it is much more difficult to get boat parts in the Bahamas and there is a pesky 40% duty on many of the parts.  So, we had the part shipped overnight to Vero and Joe installed it the next day.   But in the meantime, the weather window we had been waiting for was gone.   We needed at least 24 hours of good weather to cross (and we really wanted at least 48 hours of clear weather) and the wind predictions after Saturday were between 20-30 and not from a favorable direction.   Tootsie didn't make the crossing either so we are both still in Vero and depending on weather may be here until Christmas.   There is still a slight chance for a crossing window on Friday/Saturday which would get us to Green Turtle Cay by Christmas.   That would mean re-stowing the solar Christmas lights and decorations for the crossing.  Actually, we have made lots of friends here and love the place but we don't usually stay in any one place this long (going on 3 weeks now!).   Short Walk likes to move when cruising.  Joe would tell you I get cranky after 2 weeks in one place.   Maybe I'll drag him to the Art Museum to get even for that remark.

Merry Christmas to you all!  

Short Walk and Tootsie moored together in Vero Beach

Sunset on the bridge behind our moored boats

View from underneath the bridge into Vero Beach

View from top of Bridge looking south on the ICW

Kites flying in park near the marina

Pelican under the bridge

Egret in park

Kingfisher in park

The tranformation is complete

For those of you who haven't seen us in a while, there have been a few changes.   One of us has decided to let his hair down (literally).   Last year, when we were on the boat for almost 9 months, Joe somehow neglected to get a haircut.   Eventually, I realized he wanted to have a ponytail by the time his daughter and family visited us in the Bahamas.   They visited in February and he was a bit shaggy by then but alas, no ponytail.  I dragged him to my hairdresser in Doylestown when we got home last summer for a "trim" however, once Joe sets a goal, not much gets in his way.   So just recently, he achieved the goal of becoming a pony-tailed cruiser!    I have to wonder what is next (an earring?   a tattoo?  a parrot?).  If the guys at work could see him now.   And for those of you who have been teasing him (calling him "hippie", "freak" etc.); thanks for the support but in reality it just egged him on!  Interesting because I get a VERY short haircut (called boat-hair) when we travel because it is more convenient and the shorter my hair gets, the longer Joe's gets.   Actually, I love the new look-very salty!   Who'd have thunk it?

What to do in Velcro Beach

Now that I've got the ranting about credit cards and weather out of my system (see post below "Stuck in Velcro Beach"), I can focus on having some fun.   Vero is actually a good town to be in if you have to sit and wait somewhere.   The moorings are inexpensive ($15/night), the marina is friendly and the town provides free bus service Monday-Saturday.  We arrived on a Thursday and that happens to be the night of the weekly happy hour for all cruisers in the mooring field.   So, we met some old and new friends and made plans for other get togethers.   Jill and Parker on Tootsie showed us the ropes of the bus system and we ran all over town to a great used book store, marine store etc...On Saturday, half a block from the beach, there is an incredible Farmer's Market that runs all year long.   I never thought about fresh local produce 12 months a year.   Heaven!   

Once we exhausted all culinary and retail opportunities, we were looking for something new.   So, we hiked up our double-knit pants above our waists, put on our white shoes and belts and took the bus to the shuffleboard courts!   Actually, boaters who had wintered here previously (Island Spirit and Cat's Paw) invited us to join them for a lunch of southern barbecue to be followed by several strenuous sets of shuffleboard.   The city built approximately a dozen pristine shuffleboard courts in a park in the middle of town.   The equipment is maintained by volunteers and the competition can be downright serious.   Oh it looks easy but it is not.   However, it is somehow quite satisfying to knock your spouses puck off the course or even better into the "minus ten" scoring block.   Nine of us played on various teams until we developed some semblance of skill (skill is perhaps not the best choice of words) and then we played the women against the men with spouse against spouse.   Who won is not important (OK-so the men actually won) but it turned out to be a hoot!   And the octogenarians who supervise the court and provide strategic advice were just as much fun as the game.   I know I have created a somewhat scary vision for you but don't knock it until you've tried it-great fun!

When we first arrived in Vero, I thought we would provision and leave right away.   I detected a little stalling attitude in Joe and was puzzled.   However, as the date for the Army-Navy game grew closer, I began to understand why.   We don't have a TV with us so we need to go ashore to watch the game that represents quite a rivalry in the Morton Family.   Joe's Dad, one brother and one niece were in the Army.   Joe, another brother and niece were in the Navy.   The e-mails have been flying for weeks and the cell phones will be buzzing during the game.   It is pouring rain as I write this but I have no doubt that before the 2:30 kickoff, we will be in the dinghy in our rain gear headed for a bar and a TV.   The things I do for this man.

GO NAVY!!!!!!!!!!    GO NAVY!!!!!!!!!!       GO NAVY!!!!!!!!!!  

Stuck in Velcro Beach

Well, the nickname for Vero Beach (Velcro Beach) is proving very accurate.   We arrived here December 1 with the plan to reconnect with friends, see the city, reprovision and then scoot to the Bahamas.   We've done the first 3 but the scooting to the Bahamas is proving elusive.   Just a couple obstacles to our escape:  we had credit card fraud and the Credit Union shut our card down when they detected the fraud.   We discovered the fraud when some automatic payments we send to the card were rejected and the vendors e-mailed us (don't ask me why the credit card company didn't e-mail us).   So we ordered a new card and then the fun started.   The credit card company would not issue a new card until we filled out a fraud report. Fine, I said, please e-mail it to me.   Oh no ma'am, we have to mail it to your home address.  Ok.....I explained that we have a mail service that will forward our mail to us but obviously there is a time delay.   Can't we get a new card in the meantime?   No can do!  So we wait and get the fraud report form and mail it back around Thanksgiving.   When we arrived in Vero, we checked our mail and there were 2 envelopes from the Credit Union.   The mail service scans the envelopes so you can see who sent you mail.   Then they will either open and scan the contents or forward the mail to you.  We have them mailed to us in Vero but neither contained a new credit card!    A phone call revealed that the new card was indeed sent to us at our home address but the Post Office will not forward envelopes with Credit Cards so it got sent back to the Credit Union (gee-didn't I already explain to them that our mail was being forwarded?).   So bottom line, we had to change our official address for our credit card accounts to the marina in Vero so they could send the card directly here.   In the meantime, it was looking like there would be a weather window to the Bahamas next week so we paid to have the card Fed Exed.   Ummmmm....still don't have it.....where is it?    Still working on the answer to that so stay tuned.  

However, checking the weather today, the window to the Bahamas next week has pretty much slammed shut.   This is the portion of the trip where you sail east from Florida, crossing the Gulf Stream and then onto the Bahamas Banks.   The Gulf Stream runs north between 3-4 knots of speed in an northerly direction so it tends to push the boat north too; even if you are crossing at a 90 degree angle.   Typically, you aim southeast before going east.   When there is a north wind blowing onto the Gulf Stream (therefore wind direction against the current), the waves get rough very quickly so we are looking for a southerly component to the wind.    We use a weather service on the single sideband radio and also check several sites on the internet.   One great program on the internet (www.passageweather.com) shows you wind and waves and animates the display for the next few days.   Here is a picture of the wind direction and speed for a typical day next week.  The tail of the flag (looks like an F) shows the direction of the wind and the color indicates velocity.   Twenty-five to thirty knot winds from the northeast would create a quite challenging and uncomfortable passage across the gulf stream so we will wait.  

The predictions for everyday do not look like this but the general pattern for next week shows building winds from the wrong direction. And as we all know, weather predictions are only predictions. We can't count on the wind arriving exactly when passageweather.com says it will. A little early, a little late....one might say it's all in the numbers. You can say that unless you are out in a forty foot boat in the Gulf Stream and then it becomes a little more real than numbers. So, we will wait until the weather pattern is a little less "colorful" and a little more southerly. We like to see southerly winds and small waves (under 5') that are predicted to last for 2-3 days before we attempt the approximate 24 hour crossing.  

In the meantime, there are lots of things to do to occupy ourselves in Vero.  When in Florida.......

An uneventful ocean passage

Front coming into St. Augustine

Bridge of Lyons in St Augustine

After the front blew through

Sunset while on the ocean St. Augustine to Ft. Pierce

Welcoming committee in Vero Beach

Pelicans at rest in Vero Beach

We waited a few extra days in St. Augustine for the wind to change direction and drop down a bit.   The St. Augustine inlet is not the best and we have very experienced sailor friends who almost broached in the inlet so we take it very seriously.   The day we arrived in St. Augustine on the ICW, we cruised past the inlet to the mooring field and noticed rolling and breaking waves in the inlet.   I looked at Joe and thought "no way pal".   Maybe I actually said that out loud with a few choice words sprinkled about.   The waves didn't die down until the front blew through on Monday.   We waited an extra day for the seas to calm and on Wed Nov 30 conditions looked relatively settled in the inlet and the ocean forecast was good for a transit to Ft. Pierce (approximately 24 hours).   However, the inlet can only be described as tricky in the best of conditions.   The charts don't include the markers for the inlet because the sand is constantly shifting and they move the markers to match the natural channel that the water carves out.   There were still small (3') rollers from the northwest but no breaking waves in the inlet.   The channel makes some abrupt turns and we got a little too close to the side of the channel in one spot and banged the bottom.   That will focus your attention rather quickly.   But Joe steered the boat out of trouble (whew!) and shortly we were out in the ocean with up to a 20 knot wind behind us.   We made it to Ft. Pierce without any issues 25 hours later.   On Joe's shift he juggled 3 cruising ships and a cargo carrier going into Cape Canaveral plus several fishing boats and another sailboat.   I was in blissful slumber down below.   We are now in Vero Beach which is actually 2 hours north of the Ft. Pierce inlet.   We missed Vero last year and knew Parker and Jill on Tootsie were here so we put it on the itinerary.   The city marina has moorings in a snug section of a creek right off the waterway.   It is very popular so they put multiple boats on each mooring.   Right now, we are rafted with Tootsie and another boat.   Kind of weird; we never rafted on a mooring before and it's kind of like talking over the back yard fence to your neighbors. Luckily, we have very good neighbors and it sure makes happy hour convenient.   Vero Beach is nicknamed "Velcro Beach" which the cruising guide indicates is because so many boaters come and never leave.   I'm thinking they named it after the boats stuck together on moorings.  There is a free bus system 6 days/week so it is a very easy town to get around in and we will take some time to reprovision, let our mail catch up with us and prep for a crossing to the Bahamas.   We would love to get to the Bahamas before Christmas but as usual it is all weather dependent.